Arunachal Pradesh: things to keep in mind before you go

Get your permit first

Indian citizens from outside Arunachal need an Inner Line Permit (ILP). Apply on the state government's official e-ILP portal a few days before you travel, and carry printed copies and the ID you applied with. It is checked at entry points such as Bhalukpong on the Tawang road.

Foreign nationals need a Protected Area Permit, which usually has to be arranged through a registered tour operator.

Some places near the border, such as Bum La Pass and Sangetsar Lake, need an extra permit arranged in Tawang, and can close at short notice.

The road to Tawang

The usual route is Guwahati to Bhalukpong, then up through Bomdila and Dirang to Sela Pass and down to Tawang. It is two days each way, with a night in Dirang or Bomdila. The Sela tunnel has made the crossing more reliable in winter, but snow and landslides still close roads.

Altitude and health

Tawang is at about 3,000 m and Sela Pass at about 4,170 m. Go slowly on the first day, drink plenty of water, and skip alcohol until you have settled in. Anyone with heart or lung conditions should ask their doctor before going.

Weather and seasons

March to June and September to November are the best months. December to February brings snow and cold, beautiful but harder on the roads. The monsoon, June to September, brings landslides.

On the ground

• Carry enough cash; ATMs exist in the bigger towns but run dry.
• Many sensitive areas, such as Bum La Pass, allow only locally registered vehicles, so you switch to a local car for those stretches.
• Mobile signal is patchy outside towns. Tell someone your route.
• Do not drive after dark on the mountain roads.
• Ask before photographing people, and follow the rules inside monasteries.
• Carry your plastic out with you.